The Shining Mountain [MOBI]
07 March 2014, 07:52
2013 | MOBI | 1.14MB
Peter Boardman, (now dead from a subsequent mountaineering accident), in this book relates his successful 1976 two-man climb with Joe Tasker up the west wall of Changabang in the Garhwal Himalaya. The hardships of an Alpine-type assualt on this monster mountain are related, as are the doubts and fears he experiences, along with the disciplined mental state he cultivates to banish them.
The most curiously attractive thing about the book is the young author's thinking: clear, intelligent, and able to remain focused on each task at hand under the most extraordinary circumstances. The reader follows PB through each portion of the ascent and descent as he and Joe Tasker face and eliminate seemingly impossible obstacles one by one. The rhythm of the tale told feels right. It moves forward at a careful and deliberate pace, never puffed up or pedantic.
An emotional epilogue by climber Chris Bonington underscores Boardman's achievements both on the mountain, as a climber, and off, as a gentle human being.
Sacred Summits [MOBI]
07 March 2014, 07:48
2013 | MOBI | 1.29MB
This book describes Boardman's climbs between December 1978 and November 1979 including the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea, the impressive first ascent of Kangchenjunga North Ridge, and the first ascent of the South Summit of Gauri Shankar. The photos are very good. The cover photo is the west ridge of Gauri Shankar.
Pete uses his diaries to tell his inner feelings, and spins a captivating story of the trek to base camp, his silly accident, and the personalities of Doug, Joe and Georges Bettembourg. Boardman, Joe Tasker and Doug Scott made it to the Kangchenjunga summit on May 15, 1979.
Earlier in 1979 an American/Nepalese expedition led by Al Read made the first ascent of the North Summit of Gauri Shankar, with John Roskelley and Dorje Sherpa reaching the summit on May 8, 1979. Boardman then chose to try the West Ridge to the South Summit. This was as long, fine and intricate a ridge climb as has ever been done in the Himalaya, exposed for long sections and demanding sustained care. Boardman, Tim Leach, Guy Neidhardt, and Pemba Lama made it to the summit on November 8, 1979. "The ridge was a cutting edge between light and shade. A mighty barrier, it divided winds and snowstorms, cultures and countries. Also, it was our only delicate support between earth and sky."
Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker disappeared in March 1982 climbing the North East Ridge of Everest. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was established in their memory.
Savage Arena [MOBI]
07 March 2014, 07:42
2013 | MOBI | 2.03MB
The story of Tasker's climbing, to a compelling story of K2 is a must read. Told in an understated way, it nevertheless provides deep insights into what drove him to return again and again to the high mountains.